The right kind of coating is vital. If you select the wrong paint, it won't matter how much effort and money you may spend on your project. Too many flawlessly great paint projects deteriorate too soon because poor quality primer and paint were used.
A dependable rule of thumb is to complement the existing covering. If you are painting or staining over a latex paint, recoat with latex. You might have a myriad of choices if the material is uncoated, nevertheless, you still need to consider climate, maintenance, and strength to determine the best covering for the job.
No-Fuss Painting Using Primers
Primer is the unsung hero of any quality paint job. It can determine how well the surface is protected and exactly how long the paint can last. Knowing when to use primers messes up painters about just as much as which primers to work with. Basically, you need to use a primer when you are covering a fresh or bare surface; changing colors, textures, or finishes; or making a surface more uniform. About really the only time you don't have to prime is when you're recoating with the same paint and finish over a sound paint, for example, a flat latex paint over another flat latex paint.
To make sure of compatibility, choose a product that's part of your paint system. By paint system I am saying a primer and top layer manufactured by the same company. Labels of better paints always recommend specific primers and top coats for various materials and conditions. If you don't want to cope with reading the fine print, ask to view the spec, or data sheet, on a specific primer. If a spec sheet isn't available, ask to see what's known as a “specifier’s guide,” although these guides probably have significantly more information than you will ever need and you may want help translating a few of the terms and specifications.
Primers form a good base for the top coatings by penetrating, sealing, and bonding to all or any types of bare areas. Without first priming a new or reconditioned surface, you'll find that the top coatings end up flaking off much earlier than you'll expect. While you can use additives such as Emulsabond, don't make the mistake of convinced that primers are optional, or can be made out of diluted paint.
Usually in a single coat most primers even out surfaces and places which have been scraped and sanded. Sometimes a surface will require a second coating of primer to ensure a level undercoat, but often one will do. The home pictured below serves as an example of a project where two applications of primer were used. The bare wood siding was primed with an oil-based primer for extra adhesion. Then, a latex primer was applied over all the siding to provide it an even base for the top layers. Some climates almost demand another coat of primer. I've heard of one contractor in Florida who always double primes to guarantee that his work last. In the event that you live close to salt water, I recommend that you take into account doing the same.
Primers highlight surface conditions by pointing out imperfections such as loose fibers in drywall and raised wood grain in trim. You might think that a primer would smooth a surface, but if you run your hand over a primed piece of trim it always feels harsh. That's because primer makes out loose grain as it penetrates. After a dried primer has been lightly sanded, the smoothed surface is ready for coats. (Here's a tip: In the event that you tint your primer the color of the finish coat, it is possible to quicken the painting process by reducing the amount of top layers needed. Tinting is mostly used for color changes, although it's also handy for areas like bare drywall.)
Solution for Priming Interior Wall Space and Ceilings
I would recommend using latex primers wherever possible. Ask your paint dealer for advice on the best primer for interior trouble spots, such as the laundry room and bath, that need a good sealant and a water resistant primer. I've always used alkyd primers in wetter parts of the home, although there are great latex primers that seal about as well. I prime most drywall interiors with latex, especially the bed rooms, living room, and closets. I usually spray a latex primer on new construction because new buildings have sufficient vapor barriers. Also, I could paint an oil-based top coating over latex primer.
Older houses call for room-by-room decisions on what primer to utilize. If the residence doesn't have a vapor barrier or good ventilation, you will need a primer that seals the walls and keeps wetness from getting between the surface and the paint.
Latex stain blockers and sealers may be the response to priming wet rooms inside your home. These quick drying primers help condition surfaces with water, smoke, and tannin stains, plus they can be recoated rapidly, sometimes within the hour. Pittsburgh's Seal Grip is a great latex stain blocker with few VOCs and all of the benefits of an oil-based stain blocker. Quick drying alkyd primers such as Kilz have pigmented shellac (with high VOCs) that also serves as a stain killer and sealer, but I don't recommend these for latex top coats, the shellac might show through the latex. If your latex has what's known as “good hold" or hiding properties, it will maintain an even sheen over primer. You could make sure compatibility by utilizing a high quality latex stain blocker such as Seal Grip.
When it comes to walls, remember that plaster and drywall will vary. Plaster is highly alkaline, especially when it's new, and it can leach alkaline salts if it isn't properly sealed. There are several primers you can use on plaster, depending on its condition and on the top coat and finish that you've planned.
Drywall is much less alkaline than plaster. I usually prime drywall with a latex primer, unless the top coatings will be an oil-based paint, in which case I'll use an alkyd primer. (I understand that we now have perfectly good latex primers for any kind of top coating, but old patterns are hard to let go of.) When painting new drywall, I will sometimes add joint compound to the primer for a little texture. Mixed with primer, joint compound also helps even out over any sanding marks or roughness.
No-Fuss Priming For Interior Wood
When selecting primer, you should think about the nature and condition of the surface, the kind of paint (alkyd, latex, or epoxy) that is planned for the top coats, and the sort of finish (flat, semi-gloss, or glossy).
Most often I prime interior trim with an exterior alkyd primer, which seals new wood and replaces lost wetness in older wood. There are also good water-based enamel primers for interior wood. Special conditions, including the high moisture common in bath rooms and kitchens, may call for a breathable latex primer if you cannot prime all around the wood. When you can completely prime the wood before it goes up, an alkyd primer will protect the majority of the trim from wetness. Assess conditions like these carefully and seek the advice of a specialist if your job has many different variables
Primers For Exterior Applications
Even though I prefer latex paint for the exterior, I still choose to use alkyd primers on exterior wood. They simply do a much better job of priming bare wood. I'll use an alkyd primer if I know that the residence has no major internal vapor problems and that the wood is in good condition (which usually means that it is new), especially if I had access to the siding and wood trim before it is attached to the building. It's always best to seal all over the wood (but not the ends) to provide each piece its vapor barrier.
New redwood and cedar siding, as well as hardboard siding, needs special attention. Redwood and cedar will bleed tannins for a long time, even if the timber has air-dried for months. Before priming, you should wash out the tannin with a gentle detergent, and follow this with a good rinsing. Redwood and cedar are rather porous, so you may need to wait a day or two to let them dry out. There's a good chance that more tannin resin will seep to the outside, so avoid priming with latex because the resin will bleed through. Instead, use two coats of any alkyd primer/sealer, and use high quality latex for the final coats. Any staining that occurs after that can usually be washed off with special timber cleaners.
Hardboard siding, new or already coated, presents a particular challenge. Having less grain or anything resembling a porous surface makes hardboards such as Masonite difficult to adhere to. If the wood is new then pressure wash and rinse it. If water still beads up, wash it again to eliminate all the wax. Seal new hardboard with a specially created hardboard primer/sealer, such as Pittsburgh Paints Permanizer Plus Wood Stabilizer. When mixed with a top layer, Emulsabond makes a great hardboard primer. These and other top quality sealers also work very well on metal or vinyl siding, plywood veneers, textured wood, and other composite sidings.
Method For Priming Metals
Every metallic should be cleaned of oil, grease, rust, or any other residue before you prime it, so the primer gets thorough attachment with the area. Most metal surfaces can be cleaned with a good thinner. Galvanized metals sometimes arrive from the factory with a stabilizer that may be tough to eliminate, and may need more than just thinner. Consult with your paint store if you need to be sure a primer will continue to work on new galvanized steel surfaces.
There are primers for each and every type of metal. Ferrous metals, made of iron and steel, should be primed with a rust inhibitor. Rust is almost impossible to totally remove unless you sandblast it, and even then small pockets of rust can stay that will grow back again under an unsealed surface or the wrong primer. Rust inhibitors totally seal the surface from exposure to air. Some companies make reference to these primers as direct-to-rust or direct-to-metal (DTM) primers. Smaller jobs like handrails can be primed with aerosol rust inhibitors such as Pratt & Lambert's Effecto Spray Enamel, which I've experienced good luck using.
Other metals, including copper, aluminum, bronze, and brass, should be layered with zinc-chromate primer. Some paint companies have a particular primer for new galvanized material. Older galvanized metal can be primed with a rust inhibitor like those mentioned above.
Much like any top coat, the additional time the primer has to flow and contact the surface, the better the adhesion. Quick setting primers don't flow much whatsoever and stay right where they're painted, for good or for bad. A clean surface is especially important when using an instant drying primer. Remember that some paint manufacturers recommend cleaning metals (and most other surfaces) with a thinner, while other companies suggest against using almost any solvent cleaner. Read the directions carefully.
An old technique that still works well for cleaning new or old metals is washing the outer layer with a one-to-one mixture of vinegar and water. Vinegar can be an all-purpose, inexpensive cleaner that will also etch a steel material if blended at that ratio. Etching metal works like sanding wood. It gives the surface "teeth" for better adhesion. That same ratio is helpful for new rain gutters or uncoated aluminum siding. However, it should not be utilized to clean galvanized metals, because the vinegar will harm the galvanizing.
Improved Masonry Primers
Be it inside or out, masonry usually needs a primer or sealer that will resist water and alkalis. Alkalis are salts that leach out as time passes, leaving a chalky stain called efflorescence. The source of the efflorescence, usually water, must be cured for alkali-resistant primers and sealers to help. New masonry has to cure for 90 days before you can apply primer and paint it, especially if it's highly alkaline, like stucco.
Sherwin Williams has a masonry primer called Loxon that withstands alkalinity up to pH 13; it can be applied on masonry that is a week old. Stucco, which is basically tinted mortar and filled with lime, is a great surface for Loxon, as is new plaster or poured concrete. Pittsburgh Paints can provide a primer for new, high-alkaline masonry, called Speedhide Alkali Resistant Primer; it's designed for oil-based paint. Additionally you can add this primer to cured masonry with a latex top layer, but it's important that you utilize latex only on low alkaline masonry. In these circumstances I've had good luck adding Emulsabond to the latex for extra adhesion. I would recommend it for many masonry applications.
Etching with muriatic acid used to be the only way to speed up the curing time of concrete. You may still etch if you are so inclined, although if I never see another container of muriatic acid, that would be just fine. (If it etches concrete, imagine how well it etches epidermis!) Etching takes a bucket, hose, brush, gloves, and complete eye and skin protection, remember a respirator, especially when you blend the acid with the water. Important: Add the acid to the water, not the other way around. In the event that you add drinking water to acid it'll splash and burn anything it contacts. And mix it in the correct ratio, usually one to three. Make sure you have brushes, sponges, towels, and least one 5 gallon bucket of clean water for emergencies, and another 5 gallon bucket for rinsing.
Reconditioning older, peeling concrete floors can be considered a chore. You need to keep them well preserved and recoat them regularly, before they need to be completely redone. Cement flooring in really sad shape should be sandblasted, or you can use a fresh system called Peel-Away which makes prepping masonry a little easier (it's still no picnic). If the floor is in good condition, prep the surface and remove any trace of grease or wax with a good thinner.
For new concrete floors, I would recommend a cement stain created by H&C or Okon; they come in water based and silicone acrylic. My preference is water based stain, since silicone is a wax that eventually will wash off. Cement stain penetrates and seals without needing scraping or sandblasting, and resists fading much better than a top finish like latex.
Older, pre-painted cement floors have to be repainted with an identical top layer, whether latex or alkyd. A latex top coating is best applied over a standard concrete sealer, but Emulsabond also is effective. An oil-based top coat requires an oil-based enamel or epoxy concrete conditioner. I would add Penetrol to the primer for a longer lasting bond.
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